Archives – December, 2008

Back to School

There are a few days per year that are unmistakable. You simply have to look out the window to know what day it is: Christmas and Easter, the Fourth of July in the United States, Bastille Day in France, and in Lithuania, it’s September First, the day to go back to school. Unlike in the United States when the day to go back to school varies every year, state to state, and district to district, in Lithuania it’s always the very first day of September…

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Carp(e) Diem

I was excited about being invited to a backyard barbeque in Užupis, the neighborhood near the Old Town known as the “Montmartre of Vilnius” because of the many galleries and artists who live there. It’s a funny collection of the new and the old; modern apartments of Scandinavian design sit side by side with quaint wooden houses. Dark archways lead into sunny courtyards laced with clotheslines blowing in the warm spring breeze. The host of the barbeque was the manager of one of Vilnius’ many new gourmet wine shops and he had set out a selection of new wines in the overgrown yard behind his house. My hopes for spicy chicken wings and juicy meat (my idea of a barbeque) were dashed when our host announced he was preparing carp…

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54° North

The best thing about living at 54° north, is that after the winter solstice passes, every day becomes a little bit longer. This is very important to remember if you live in Lithuania, because in January, the days can be so dark, it’s hard to tell noon from midnight. The weather certainly does make it hard to motivate oneself to pull on the fuzzy boots and trudge out into the gloomy city, covered in mud and ice, but it’s great for sleeping…

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April flowers, May showers

As soon as the weather turns warm, the best place for people-watching on Saturday afternoon is on Pilies gatvė. April in the Vilnius Senamiestes (Old Town) is marked by the building of the summer patios on the street outside the restaurants. Lithuanians, being cold weather people, will sit outside in conditions much of the rest of the world would consider “too cold.” If the sun is shining, and it’s at least 50°F, the outside tables will be full…

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Higher Standards

The year 2006 brought many changes to Vilnius; the restoration of Gedimino gatvė has nearly been completed, as well as that of the Rotusės square, the Prime Minister was sacked and a new government was formed, and on May 1st, Lithuania raised the requirements for clean air in bars and restaurants to European Union standards resulting in most of the Senamiestis (old town) bars becoming non-smoking…

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Sightseeing

It is always exciting when someone comes to visit. Recently a friend of mine had a visitor from California. They had studied together in Los Angeles, and after many years, he finally came to Vilnius. It was his first trip to Europe, and I’m afraid that 10 days in Lithuania could hardly represent the diverse charm of continental life, but we did our best to show him a good time and introduce him to the food, nightlife, culture and history of our small corner of the world…

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A One-Way Ticket

When I convinced my parents to buy me a one-way plane ticket to Lithuania in December 2003, I expected to stay six months to two years. Now, four years on, I’m still in Vilnius, going to work every day, making new friends, and complaining about the customer service….

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Fiorentino

I’ve been in Lithuania since 2003, and this is at least the 3rd time Universiteto 4 has been renovated and rebranded. Never a fan of Sola Luna, I’m pleased to say that the latest restaurant, Fiorentino has got it just about right…

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