If you’re in the mood for… Lithuanian

February 25, 2010

There are obviously a few places in Vilnius where you can get Lithuanian food, but the quality and authenticity vary drastically from place to place.  Here’s a round-up of the best potato pancakes, šašlykiai and dumplings in the city.

You can of course do the obvious thing, and just go to Čili Kaimas or Forto Dvaras, but that’s kind of like wanting to eat Italian and going to The Olive Garden.  The waitresses are dressed in a version of the national costume and there is a large assortment of very heavy potato or pork-based dishes often served with sauerkraut and pickles.  The prices are not too high, but neither is the quality.

Cafe Gabi (Šv. Mykolo 6, Vilnius, tel: 212-3643) has always gotten a bad rap by the various city guides, and I can kind of see why, but I’ve always had good experiences bring friends here.  They have a very cosy little courtyard in the summer and I like their giant potato pancakes and šaltibarščiai (cold beet soup).  They also have a nice dish of chicken stuffed with prunes and wrapped in bacon.

Marceliukės Klėtis (Tuskulenu str. 35, Vilnius, tel: 272-5087) is my very favorite Lithuanian restaurant in Vilnius.  Whenever I have friends visiting, I make sure to take them here.  It doesn’t look like much from the outside stuck in this Soviet-era neighborhood 5-minutes drive from the Old Town, but step inside and you’re immediately to a 19th century Lithuanian barn, albeit a very kitschy one.  Grab a giant picnic table, and look over the menu presented on a shovel.  Start with a large beer and a gooey order of kepta duona.  I almost always order the large pork leg, but all the Lithuanian specialties are very tasty, and there are several fish dishes I like too.  At the end of the meal, make sure to order a shot of Žalgiris, a strong Lithuanian honey trauktinė, a kind of herbal liquor.  Marceliukės Klėtis is one of the few restaurants which serve it.  And at 75% alcohol, it IS strong, but it sure will help to digest that pork leg!

My favorite šašlykinė on Nemencines Plentas Somewhere a bit beyond the Baltic-American Clinic, on the left side as you’re heading towards Nemencinė, there will be a huge sign that says “šašlykinė“. Back in the woods, high above the Neris river, pick a picnic table and order their wonderful šašlykiai. Don’t try to pretend you’re on a diet and order the chicken ones either. Get the pork and worry about dieting at home. It’s best to visit on a warm evening, as the sun slowly sets over the city.

Žemaičiai (Vokiečių 24, Vilnius, tel: 261 65 73) There is little to attract you to this restaurant from the street, save for the large, wooden door. Stepping into the small, sparse foyer, you’ll wonder if you’re even in the right place. But descend the stairs to the cellar, and you’ll realize there is a whole other world waiting for you down there.  A series of rooms, each with its own distinct decorating, make up this traditional Lithuanian restaurant. The menu contains several international dishes, but don’t worry about those.  Choose one of the grilled meat platters, great for sharing with friends, or the huge potato pancakes smothered in bacon and mushroom sauce.  They also have house brewed beer, along with several other local favorites on tap. Visit the website for the menu and other information.

And a few more around Lithuania…

Bernelnių Užiega (M. Valančiaus g. 9, Kaunas, tel: +370 614 05236) Not exactly known for its speedy service, this traditional restaurant in the heart of Kaunas’ Old Town will at least make sure you leave full and happy. Huge portions of various potato dishes, grilled meats and fish and beer and beer snacks served to you by waiters dressed in rustic Lithuanian clothes, all to make you feel as if you’re smack dab in the middle of a 19th century family dinner. They have several locations around Kaunas and a large barn on the highway between Vilnius and Kaunas. Visit the website for more information, addresses, menus and catering information.

Senoji Kibininė (Karaimų g. 65, Trakai, tel: +370 528 558 65) Ok, it’s not really traditional Lithuanian food, but kibinai are a staple dish of the Karaite people who have inhabited Trakai since the end of the 14th century. Pastries filled with anything from ground pork, beef, mushrooms, chicken or vegetables, kibinai are a great way to end a day of swimming, sailing, rowing or just general carousing by the lake. The restaurant offers a great view of the castle from the deck in the summer, or in the colder months, sit inside and sip tea in this rustic house while waiting for your food. You can also order them ahead of time to go. Visit the website for the menu and other information.

Filed under: Food & Drink,Lithuania,Traveler Tips

Tags: food, Kaunas, Lithuania, Lithuanian, quickpicks, restaurant, traditional, Trakai, Vilnius