Filed under: Festivals and Occasions
From Lithuanian Heritage March/April 2008
(Tulips)
When it’s raining in February and snowing in March, it’s nice to know that I can get fresh tulips (they claim they are grown in Lithuania!) at the flower market on Basanavičiaus gatvė. There’s nothing like a large bunch of bright yellow tulips on a wet, gray day to put a much-needed smile on a person’s face!
Kaziuko Mugė (St. Casimir’s Market) was bigger than ever this year. It extended down Gedimino prospektas from McDonald’s to the Cathedral—yes McDonald’s is used as a landmark in Lithuania too! Stalls were not allowed on Cathedral square, but they lined the road a long way past Užupis, and were packed in all the way up Pilies gatvė in the Old Town. Marceliukės Kletis, a popular restaurant serving excellent Lithuanian food, had two cafes set up this year, grilling sashlykai (Lithuanian shish-kebabs) on pitchforks over a fire made in a pair of giant shoes. The grill masters, wearing traditional work clothes and straw hats, stood around with very serious looks on their faces and a bottle of water in their hands to tame the fires. There must be an explanation that I’m not aware of, but Kaziuko Mugė for some reason loves really big things. Besides the giant shoes, there was a giant chair, giant coffee cup, a giant window and giant pot of tulips. A few years ago, they had a giant chicken; I wonder what happened to him?
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September 25, 2011
From Lithuanian Heritage March/April 2007
In Ignalina, Lithuanian Independence Day, Vasario 16-ają, is celebrated with a festival of winter sport called Sportas Visiems at the Lithuanian Winter Sports Center. I went for the alpine ski races, but there was also cross-country skiing, ski orienteering, biathlon, target shooting, ice skating, and a very impressive winter triathlon which consists of cross-country skiing, running and mountain biking through the ice and snow.
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September 25, 2011
From Lithuanian Heritage November/December 2006
I was eating lunch a few weeks ago with a couple of British ex-pat friends who were recounting the events of a recent business trip back to London. They spoke of traffic jams and commutes, the astonishing price of a simple cup of bad coffee and the security hassles at Gatwick. They finished by declaring how happy they were to be back “home” in Vilnius where good coffee is cheap, a trip to the airport is never more than a quick in and out, and work is only a ten minute walk from home. The traffic jams are the same though. The work abroad business is booming in Lithuania with hoards of young people—some educated, some not—lined up for the chance to work in London or Dublin. On the other hand, Vilnius has become a haven for British, Danish, Dutch, and French businessmen looking for lucrative emerging markets and cozy lifestyle.
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September 25, 2011
Sostinės dienos (Capitol Days) is a good time of year to be in Vilnius. Always the first weekend of September, the city is alive as students and families return from the seaside, sodyba (countryside garden) or grandmother’s house in the village. The tourists have mostly gone home, and Vilnius is left for its Vilnečiai.
For three days, the full length of Gedimino prospektas is taken over by stalls of artisans selling their wares, local restaurants grilling sašlykiai (sishkebabs), griddles frying enormous bulviniai blynai (potato pancakes) and serving troškinys (stew) bubbling hot in large cast-iron pots. To drink there is alus (beer) and karštas punčas (hot wine punch). Near the Parliament building games and activities fill the street with children, a DJ spins favorite teenage tunes while a group of boys plays 3-on-3 basketball in front of the national library.
Lidija Rasutis was singing with her women’s ensemble, Eglė, on a stage set up on Lukiskių aikštė, with the sun setting behind them. Though they were all dressed alike, Lidija still stood out as the most fashionable, dancing and swaying while she sung. The music was old-fashioned, but the crowed enjoyed it.
There were all types strolling along, eating, dancing, listening to music and buying fresh breads and sweets; young families, elderly couples, rebellious teenagers and even a few angels. Life can be hard in this small country on the Baltic Sea, but from the smiles along Gedimino prospektas in September, Vilnius seems to be the happiest, most carefree city around.
September 15, 2010
In Lithuanian, the word užupis means “beyond the river,” though the Vilnelė River, which divides Užupis from the Vilnius Old Town, is actually more of a winding creek. In 1997, a group of bohemian artists and writers declared the neighborhood independent and founded the People’s Republic of Užupis. Independence Day is April 1st, and a sign marking the entrance to the district features four distinct symbols including a smiley face and the Mona Lisa warning you of “art ahead”…
Continue April 1, 2010
March 11, 2010 (Kovo 11) celebrates the 20th anniversary of modern-day, independent Lithuania; though it was nearly 3.5 tumultuous years before the last Soviet troops retreated to Moscow. On this day I reflect on my first trip to Lithuania, and all the things I could not have done it it were not for those brave men and women who stood up to the Supreme Soviet and declared their independence.
I first came to Lithuania in July of 1997 to study the Lithuanian language at Vilnius University…
Continue March 11, 2010
Kazuiko Mugė, the centuries old St. Casmir’s Fair, stretches along Gedimino gatvė and throughout the senamiestes (old town) with stalls selling baronkos (hard bagels on a string), verbos (dried feathers and flowers on a stick – the Lithuanian version of palms used on Palm Sunday), handmade meats, cheeses and honey, textiles, crafts and sweets for the children…
Continue March 9, 2010
Mt. Ruapehu is famous for its crazy nasty weather and I got a taste of it last Friday. At the base of the ski area, it was raining but at the top of the first lift, it was snowing with visibility limited to about 50m. We’d already missed two days that week due to bad weather, so we had to take what we could get. At least it wasn’t windy.
Despite how ugly it was on Friday, the forecast for the weekend was ‘blue as’… this will make more sense if you watch this video on YouTube… Kiwis seriously talk like that…
Continue November 20, 2009
After more than five years of living, working, and enjoying life in Vilnius, it is time for me to move on. By the time this magazine goes to press, I’ll already be in New Zealand, where I will spend the “summer” coaching a local ski club. I do intend to return next winter to Lithuania to coach the Kalnų Ereliai ski team and hopefully to resume writing this column, but for the moment, it’s time for this little lietuvaitė to pack her bags and learn to speak Kiwi…
Continue August 4, 2009
Since much of my winter is spent out of Lithuania, I spend spring getting in touch with friends and catching up on all the activities I’ve missed. As long as I can remember, on April 1st the weather is always warm and what better way to start the spring then by celebrating Užupio Independence Day…
Continue August 4, 2009
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